The Eastern Shore of Virginia is surrounded by water on all sides, and there are many tidal creeks coming in from the bay and ocean. One of the most famous and loveliest is Onancock Creek. The water here is wide and fairly deep, and from a kayak you can see many fine pieces of Eastern Shore architecture. Several miles in from the Chesapeake, sits the town of Onancock, which is carefully trying to balance its original character with budding tourism. At the mouth of the creek, on the north side, is
Parkers Marsh, a Natural Area Preserve managed by the Virginia Dept. of Conservation and Recreation. To get there I put in from private property near Poplar Cove.
I had debated all morning if it would be a good day to paddle, as the weather was very unsettled. I went anyway looking forward to the cooler temps and dramatic skies. As soon as I got out the cove and into the creek, I was met by strong winds coming off the bay and coming directly up the creek, which caused small waves to come up over the bow of my kayak, and I questioned whether it would be a good day or not. I paddled closer to the shore and got off of Onancock Creek and into Parkers Marsh at the earliest opportunity, and the wind was not an issue for the rest of my trip. The marsh is a watery maze, and as I wove my way through its small creeks, I startled waterfowl at every turn. With the help of Google satellite view, I knew how to navigate my way to Back Creek and eventually to Sound Beach, where I got out to explore. On the beach I had that rare and glorious feeling of having the planet all to myself.
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Poplar Cove |
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Poplar Cove |
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Poplar Cove |
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Osprey Nest |
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Onancock Creek |
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Parkers Marsh
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Between Parkers Marsh and Back Creek |
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Sound Beach at Parkers Marsh |
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Sound Beach at Parkers Marsh |
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Sound Beach at Parkers Marsh |
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Sound Beach at Parkers Marsh |
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Sound Beach at Parkers Marsh |
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Sound Beach at Parkers Marsh |
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Sound Beach at Parkers Marsh |
If you would like to paddle Onancock Creek or visit Parkers Marsh, the only public landing I know of is the boat ramp at the town harbor, which is at the end of Market St. in Onancock. The harbor has a concrete ramp, plenty of parking, and can be a very busy place on summer weekends. There are many pleasure boats and a few working boats using this end of the creek, however, most people are very respectful of smaller craft, and if you stick to the shore you should have no problems from the traffic, just be cautious if you cross. As I paddled it, my trip was just over 5 miles, but from the ramp it is another 4 miles to Parkers Marsh and back. That may be longer than most want to paddle, but there is much to see on the creek, no matter how far you go. The Onancock harbor is also home to
Southeastern Expeditions and their guided kayak tours.
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