Looking for someplace new to paddle, I decided to try the public boat ramp on Gray's Creek in Surry County on Marina Dr. The ramp is relatively new, and in fact, an on-line exploration couldn't definitively tell me if it was even open yet. I took my chances and found a busy concrete ramp, and a very full parking lot. I had to unload my kayak and gear at the ramp, and then head back up the hill to park in an auxiliary lot. Immediately adjacent to the ramp is the Surry Seafood Co. which has a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner with a large outdoor deck overlooking the creek, and a full bar. According to their web site, overnight accommodations are available, and there are plans for a bait and tackle store, as well as a marina.
I left the ramp heading right (due north) towards the mouth of the creek. I crossed the creek to a large brackish marsh, where wild rice and other grasses were swaying in the light breeze, while red-wing blackbirds sang, and pickerelweed bloomed. The marsh gave way to a more wooded shore, where it seemed every available dead tree had an osprey pair nesting in it; I have never seen so many on one trip. One pair made a home on the ruins of an old pier near the mouth of the creek. Many of the piers pilings lie just below the water at high tide. There is a bluff where Gray's Creek and the James River meet, and where large chunks of gray rock have tumbled into the water. In these chunks were masses of fossilized shells from when this place was at the bottom of a warm shallow sea, 4-5 million years ago.
After passing a large private beach, I explored Black Gut Creek and several of its twisty, cypress-lined branches. Rounding Swan Point I was fully out in the James, directly across from Historic Jamestown. I hauled up onto a sandy beach near Black Gut Creek for lunch and a swim, while the Jamestown/Scotland ferries were busy shuttling people and cars from one side to the other (the ferry remains one of Virginia's best free rides). Heading home I crossed the mouth of Gray's creek where there were more beaches, and where several parties of local boaters were enjoying the water. Heading back to the boat ramp I passed several homes with docks; all seemed to be occupied with families enjoying the beautiful day. As I paddled it the trip was about 5.5 miles.
Surry Seafood is adjacent to the boat ramp.
Gray's Creek
Gray's Creek
Gray's Creek
Gray's Creek
Gray's Creek looking out into the James.
Old pilings with osprey nest; Scotland ferry landing in the distance.
This was my first kayaking trip of 2015. I had wanted to go earlier, but weekends were either booked, or the weather was foul. Knowing I wanted to see some "spring", I headed to the Old Bridge ramp on the Nottoway River near Courtland. I've been here before and knew there would be plenty of trees to be seen leafing out. As I mentioned in an earlier trip report for this spot, the ramp is unimproved and lies at the end of gravel road with just a few parking spaces, but there are no power boats to deal with on the ramp. Heading immediately right from the landing I paddled into the Cypress Bridge Natural Area, a flooded forest where I had hoped to finally find the remains of the legendary Big Mama bald cypress, which was estimated to be over 1000 years old when it died. On my previous visit I was unable to paddle into this swamp due to low water, but that was not the case on this trip. Though I did see several very large dead cypress trees, I am not sure either one was Big Mama.
While I was in the swamp I startled a rafter of turkeys resting in the cypress canopy. Hearing the flap of their large wings against the air, as well as their calls to each other made the whole trip worthwhile. I also came upon a beaver who did not see or hear me coming, and he/she played statue until I finally got too close for its comfort and it dashed into the water. Other beavers were not so surprised, and let me know their displeasure with the splash of their tails. Several deer ran through the shallow black water attempting to escape my intrusion into their world. One of the largest black snakes I have ever seen was sunning itself on a partially submerged log. Besides turkeys, other bird sightings included great blue herons, kingfishers, and lots of busy cardinals. I did not see them, but I also heard an owl, several woodpeckers, and many, many unseen birds who filled the entire trip with song. My last trip on this stretch of the river was as equally full of wildlife.
The water was much higher than I have ever paddled on the Nottoway, which made my foray into the swamp possible, but once out into the main channel, I had to work really hard to make it upriver. I paddled all the way to the US 58 bridge, and let the current do all the work on the return. The trees along the shoreline were putting out their new leaves for the year, and everything had a very fresh look. Carolina jessamine, possumhaw viburnum, willow, Pinxterbloom azaleas, hawthorn, bluets, and the occasional dogwood were blooming over my head as I paddled by. As I did it, this trip was about 7 miles round trip.
Cypress Bridge Swamp Natural Area Preserve
Cypress Bridge Swamp Natural Area Preserve
Cypress Bridge Swamp Natural Area Preserve
Cypress Bridge Swamp Natural Area Preserve
Cypress Bridge Swamp Natural Area Preserve
Cypress Bridge Swamp Natural Area Preserve
Cypress Bridge Swamp Natural Area Preserve
Beaver
Carolina Jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens) with Red Maple (Acer rubrum) on the Nottoway
Hawthorn (Crataegus) on the Nottoway
Resurrection Fern (Pleopeltis polypodioides) on the Nottoway
This was my fourth trip on the Blackwater River, and my second time putting in at Joyner Bridge. I was hoping to time my trip to catch some of the fall foliage colors along the river, and I was not disappointed. The Blackwater is a slow moving river that flows through swampy lowlands, separating Isle of Wight and Southampton Counties. One dip of the paddle and you know how the river got its name. Since the Blackwater flows through heavily forested areas, tannins are leached into the water, acidifying it and staining it the color of strong tea. This extra acidity also keeps the water relatively clear, albeit dark. The shore is lined with bald cypress and other trees that can take wet feet. On this trip I did not see many birds, just a couple of great blue herons, kingfishers, teals and a pileated woodpecker, but on other trips I have seen much more activity. I guess part of this has to do with it being later in the season.
Joyner Bridge Landing is a state boat ramp with plenty of parking, but no other facilities. In the summer I found it busy with people fishing from the shore and playing in the water, but it was not crowded. On this trip there was no one else at the landing when I pulled in. Although there is a concrete ramp, I launched from a small sandy beach next to the parking area. I headed upriver (right and north) passing under the bridge. Although I had the river all to myself, the outside world intruded for much of my trip. Joyner Bridge Rd. is near the river for quite a distance, and you can easily hear vehicle traffic, but fortunately it is not a busy road. The water level on this trip was very, very low, which made it easy to get out and explore the shoreline, but this also caused my trip to end sooner than I wanted. Once I got about 2 miles from the landing the deep river became more shallow and narrower, and became more swampy. At this point the river was blocked repeatedly by fallen logs, so I had to turn around making the trip only about 4 miles.
This was my forth trip on the Nottoway, and to date, was the farthest upriver I had gone. I put in at the state boat ramp at Peter's Bridge, where plenty of parking is the only amenity. Judging by the lack of trash I usually encounter at boat ramps, I would say this is not a popular spot, or the people who do use it clean up after themselves. The steep ramp is concrete, with a small spot of gravel on either side of it where it meets the water. I immediately headed downriver towards the bridge so I could get some photos of fog lifting off the river, and then headed upriver. The current in the river was stronger than what I have encountered on the Nottoway in the past, and in several spots I really had to work to get through some minor rapids. Judging from the mud stains on the surrounding foliage, the river level had been much higher earlier.
Though I saw no other humans on the river, I did see other species, including osprey, a large owl , river otters, kingfishers, a pileated woodpecker, several small hawks, two fawns drinking from the river, and so many turtles. Despite the abundant wildlife, beautiful scenery, and peace and quiet, this is not my favorite stretch of the Nottoway. I really like the areas further downriver where it runs through cypress swamps, but any day, on any body of water, is a good day. I continued upriver until I reached the Old Forty Rd. bridge and turned around. The strong current I fought going upstream, was welcomed heading back to the landing. The trip as I paddled it was just over 8 miles.
For a while now, I've been looking for new places to explore the lower James River and its tributaries. When I start a search, I usually begin looking for public boat ramps or public beaches with something interesting nearby to explore. This time I came across a trip report from paddling.net about Claremont Beach in Surry County, and this is where I headed. Claremont is an interesting little town that is in an area long on history. The first English settlers stopped here before heading to Jamestown, but quickly realized other people already called the place home. On the edge of town is historic Claremont Manor, a pre-revolutionary plantation that once belonged to one of the wealthiest men in the state. The town itself was a planned community built in the late 1800's, and judging from some of the surviving buildings, it was once a nice place, but now appears ready to recede into the forest. Down the hill from Claremont is Claremont Beach, an area of newer vacation homes right on the James River. In the middle of these homes is a small beachfront landing with room for about 15-20 cars, though I was the only one needing a space. Pulling in, I noticed a sign saying that only residents of Claremont can use the landing, but a friendly lady strolling by said I would be fine parking there. I launched from the sandy beach and followed the shoreline westward and upriver.
Once in the water there are many exposed pilings from old piers, but they are easy enough to maneuver around, but still use caution, as some lie just below the waterline. Once you get past the cluster of riverfront houses, the shoreline becomes more natural. The beaches here are littered with fossils laid down from 5 to 7 million years ago when this was once part of a shallow sea. In places you can paddle below cliffs where ancient shells are sloughing off in great layers. Most of the beaches are private, and I would not recommend getting out to explore, but in a kayak you can get pretty close, and if the water is clear you can reach right in and pull out all kinds of little treasures.
Claremont Beach Landing
Pilings From a Long Ago Enterprise
James River
James River
James River
Further up the James, on its south side, is Upper Chippokes Creek, which at its mouth is fairly broad. I followed the east side of the creek until I reached a bald cypress filled cove, where I could paddle between the trees. Feeding the cove is a small creek called Brandon Gut, which I followed until it became too narrow. Since the tide was heading out, I did not want to get stuck in the mud. The bird life on this little creek (as well as on the larger waterways) was rich. I saw osprey, great blue herons, kingfishers, and I also saw many bald eagles, both adults and juveniles. This once threatened species has made a spectacular comeback along the James. After exploring the gut, I began my way back to the landing. Until this point it had been a serene, much-needed paddle, and I felt like I owned the water and had it all to myself, but as I neared Claremont Manor, the sound of repeated rifle fire ruined the zen atmosphere. From the pattern, I guessed it was target practice, or at least I hoped so, but I knew I did not want to be a target, so I quickened my pace past the plantation. As I paddled it, my round trip was about 6.5 miles.
Brandon Gut
Brandon Gut
Upper Chippokes Creek
Upper Chippokes Creek
Sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale) Blooming on Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum)
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